Things to do in Amsterdam

Three days. One for the Canal Ring (Jordaan, Anne Frank House, Westerkerk). One for Museumplein (Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh, Stedelijk). One for cycling across to Amsterdam-Noord, NDSM and the Vondelpark for a slower pace. Add a Zaanse Schans windmill morning or a Texel island day if you have more.

The Rijksmuseum — Vermeer's Milkmaid, Rembrandt's Night Watch on its dramatic single wall, and a perfectly curated Dutch Golden Age. Book the first slot in the morning and go straight to the Gallery of Honour while it's empty. Combine with the Van Gogh next door if you've timed-ticketed both.

Jordaan for canal-side cafés and indie boutiques (Brouwersgracht is the prettiest canal). De Pijp for Albert Cuyp market and Indonesian rijsttafel. Amsterdam-Noord across the IJ ferry for NDSM warehouses turned creative space and EYE film museum. Oud-West for craft coffee and Foodhallen.

Bitterballen (fried meat croquettes) with a pilsner at any brown café — Café Hoppe or Café 't Smalle. Stamppot (mashed potato with sauerkraut, sausage on top) in winter. Indonesian rijsttafel at Sampurna or Tempo Doeloe. Stroopwafels straight off the iron at the Albert Cuyp market.

Yes — it's the easiest way and the city is designed for it. Hire from MacBike or Black Bikes. Stick to the bike lanes, signal with your hand, and watch trams. The walking centre is also small enough that you can stick to feet plus trams 2, 5 and 12 for longer hops.

Begijnhof — a 14th-century courtyard of houses around a hidden church, two minutes' walk from the Spui square. Originally a community of religious lay women; still residential, so quiet and respectful. The wooden house at number 34 is one of two surviving wooden houses in the city.