Things to do in Barcelona

Four days lets you do Barcelona properly: one for the Gothic Quarter and Born, one for Gaudí (Sagrada Família, Park Güell, Casa Batlló), one for the beach and Barceloneta, and one for a day trip to Montserrat or Sitges. Less than three feels rushed once you're queueing at La Sagrada Família.

La Sagrada Família, but only with a pre-booked timed ticket and ideally an afternoon slot when the western stained glass paints the nave in red and orange. Park Güell is a close second — climb up via the back entrance from Carrer d'Olot to skip the steepest stairs.

El Born is your old-town pick — Carrer del Rec is full of independent boutiques and the Picasso Museum sits two streets over. Gràcia feels like a village inside the city, with leafy plaças and vermouth bars on every corner. Skip La Rambla after one walkthrough.

Pa amb tomàquet (toasted bread rubbed with tomato), escalivada (smoky grilled aubergine and peppers) and bombas (potato croquettes with aioli and brava sauce) from La Cova Fumada in Barceloneta. Pair with a glass of cava or a porró of red wine.

The Metro handles long crossings — L3 green line connects Sagrada Família, Passeig de Gràcia and Liceu. For the Gothic Quarter and Born, walk. Bicing bikes are great for the seafront from Barceloneta to Bogatell. Google Maps does cycling routes well in Barcelona.

Bunkers del Carmel — the Civil War anti-aircraft platforms above Gràcia. A half-hour walk up from Park Güell rewards you with a 360° panorama of the entire city at sunset, free and uncrowded compared to the bunker-tour buses.