Things to do in Bilbao

Two days. One for the Guggenheim and the riverside walk between Zubizuri and the new Zorrozaurre district. One for the Casco Viejo (the medieval Siete Calles), the Mercado de la Ribera and a pintxos crawl in the old town. Add a day trip to San Sebastián or the coast at Plentzia.

Yes — for the architecture as much as the collection. Frank Gehry's titanium curves catch the light differently at every hour; walk a full lap of the exterior before going in. Don't miss Jeff Koons's Puppy guarding the entrance and Louise Bourgeois's giant Maman spider behind.

Casco Viejo on the right bank — seven medieval streets full of pintxos bars, the Cathedral of Santiago and the covered Mercado de la Ribera (one of Europe's largest). Cross the river to Ensanche for the elegant Gran Vía and on to Indautxu for cocktail bars after dinner.

Pintxos — Basque tapas pinned with toothpicks on the bar, paid for at the end. Try gilda (anchovy, olive, guindilla pepper on a stick) and txangurro (spider crab gratin). Wash down with txakoli — a slightly fizzy Basque white poured from height. Bar Charly and Gure Toki are pintxo classics.

The Metro by Norman Foster is one of Europe's most beautiful — clean, fast, with curved glass entrances locals call fosteritos. Line 1 runs to the beach at Plentzia in 40 minutes. The tram along the riverbank is the easy way between the Guggenheim and the old town.

The Vizcaya Bridge in Portugalete — the world's oldest transporter bridge and a UNESCO site, a 15-minute Metro ride west. A gondola hangs from the iron span and ferries cars and people across the estuary. Climb the walkway on top for views straight down the river to the open sea.