Things to do in Cologne

Yes — two days. One for the Cathedral (climb to the South Tower) and the old town along the Rhine. One for the Belgian Quarter, Ehrenfeld street art and a Kölsch brewery crawl. The Christmas markets (six of them) are a December reason to come. The Carnival in February is another.

The Kölner Dom — Europe's third tallest cathedral, built over 632 years (and famously left unfinished for a few centuries). Climb the 533 steps of the south tower for views over the Rhine. The Shrine of the Three Kings inside the choir is the largest mediaeval gold reliquary in Europe.

The Belgian Quarter (Belgisches Viertel) west of the centre — indie shops, cocktail bars and pre-war apartment buildings. Ehrenfeld further west for street art and the multicultural food scene. The Südstadt for craft beer near the Bayenturm. Avoid Hohe Strasse (just a shopping street).

Kölsch — Cologne's own pale beer, served in skinny 0.2L stange glasses by Köbes waiters who keep bringing fresh ones until you put your beermat on top. Try Päffgen, Früh am Dom or Brauhaus Sion. Halver Hahn (a rye roll with Gouda and mustard) is the classic snack to go with it.

The tram network (here called the Stadtbahn) is dense and includes underground sections in the centre that act like a metro. Lines 1, 7 and 9 cover most of what you'll want. The KVB bike share works well. The cathedral and old town are walkable from Köln Hauptbahnhof in two minutes.

Kolumba — the diocesan museum built by Peter Zumthor on the ruins of a war-bombed church. Brick-on-brick architecture wraps the original Gothic arches, late-Roman foundations and a Madonna shrine into a single contemplative interior. One of the most refined small museums in Europe, almost empty most days.