Things to do in Copenhagen

Three days. One for Nyhavn, Strøget shopping street and Christiansborg Palace. One for Christianshavn (including the climb up Vor Frelsers Kirke's spire), Christiania and a Reffen street-food evening. One for Rosenborg Castle, the Round Tower and a Tivoli evening.

Climbing the external spiral spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke in Christianshavn — 400 steps with the last 150 outside, winding around the gold-leafed tower. The view across the harbour to Amalienborg and the city centre is the city's most rewarding panorama. Bring a jumper; it's windy at the top.

Nørrebro across the lakes for craft beer (Mikkeller, To Øl), Jægersborggade with its indie shops, and the Assistens Cemetery (where Andersen and Kierkegaard are buried, used as a park). Vesterbro south for the meatpacking district (Kødbyen) and Sønder Boulevard. Refshaleøen for converted industrial spaces and Noma.

Smørrebrød (open-faced rye bread sandwiches) — pickled herring, roast pork with crackling, beef tartare — at Aamanns or Schønnemann. Hot dogs from a pølsevogn cart. Filterkaffe and a kanelsnegl (cinnamon snail) from Hart Bageri. A Mikkeller flight in any of their bars. Splurge: Geist or Kadeau.

Yes for the centre — get a Donkey Republic or Swapfiets and you're set. The cycling lanes are wide, well-signed and respected. The Metro (especially the new circle line M3) is excellent for longer hops and the airport. The harbour buses (lines 991, 992) double as cheap sightseeing.

Cisternerne under Søndermarken park in Frederiksberg — Victorian water reservoirs turned into an underground exhibition space. Knee-deep water in places, single immersive installations at a time, half a metre of damp moss on the brick walls. A 15-minute Metro ride from Nørreport, almost no queues.