Things to do in Florence

Three days. One for the Uffizi and Accademia (book both well ahead), one for the Duomo complex and Santa Croce, and one to cross the Arno into Oltrarno for Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens and Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset. Add a day for Siena, San Gimignano or the Chianti hills.

Brunelleschi's dome — but climb it, don't just photograph it. The 463-step spiral between the inner and outer shell shows you how he built the thing without scaffolding, and the panorama at the top stretches to the hills. Reserve a slot weeks ahead; the climb fills up fast.

Oltrarno (the south bank) — Santo Spirito's plain stone-fronted church by Brunelleschi, the artisan workshops on Borgo San Frediano, and aperitivo on Piazza Santo Spirito at dusk. San Niccolò behind Piazzale Michelangelo is even quieter, with a Roman gate and craft beer bars.

Bistecca alla Fiorentina — a thick T-bone of Chianina beef, grilled rare, salted only. Trattoria Mario behind Mercato Centrale serves it at lunch for half the tourist-trap price. Also: ribollita (winter bread soup), lampredotto sandwich (tripe) from a street cart at Mercato del Porcellino.

Entirely. The historic centre is a 25-minute walk end to end, and most of it is pedestrian-only or restricted. There's no metro. Buses exist but you rarely need them unless you're going to Piazzale Michelangelo (bus 12 or 13) or out to Fiesole (bus 7). Just wear flat shoes for the cobbles.

The Brancacci Chapel in Santa Maria del Carmine, Oltrarno. Masaccio's 1420s frescoes (Adam and Eve being expelled from Eden) effectively invented Renaissance perspective and almost nobody queues to see them. Book the timed visit at the door — only 30 people are allowed in at once.