Things to do in Helsinki

Two days easily, three if you include a day-ferry to Tallinn. One for the Senate Square, Helsinki Cathedral, the Esplanade and Suomenlinna island. One for the Design District, Oodi Library and an evening sauna at Löyly or Allas. A third for a Tallinn day or summer islands in the archipelago.

Suomenlinna — the 18th-century sea fortress on six islands in the harbour, UNESCO-listed and accessible by a 15-minute ferry that counts as public transport. Walk the King's Gate, the old gunpowder magazines and tunnels, and bring a picnic or pop into the brewery Suomenlinnan Panimo.

The Design District around Korkeavuorenkatu and Iso Roobertinkatu for Finnish design boutiques. Kallio north of the centre for affordable bars and the hipster food scene. Töölö west for the Sibelius Monument and Hietaniemi beach. The Oodi central library is itself a wander destination.

Salmon soup (lohikeitto) at Café Regatta or Konstan Möljä. Karjalanpiirakka (rye pasties filled with rice porridge, eaten with egg butter). Reindeer in lingonberry sauce at Savotta near the Cathedral. Salmiakki (salty liquorice) if you want to know what Finns taste at home. Try a sauna with a swim in between.

Single Metro line plus an excellent tram network — Tram 2 does a sightseeing loop past most major sights. Suburban trains for further trips. Ferries to Suomenlinna and the smaller islands. Walking the centre is easy — Senate Square to Oodi to the Kamppi chapel is 15 minutes.

The Temppeliaukio — the church carved directly out of bedrock in Töölö in 1969. The roof is a copper disc; the walls are bare blasted granite still showing the drilling marks. Acoustics are remarkable; check the concert schedule. Tram 2 stops two minutes away.