Things to do in Lisbon

Three days for the city, plus a day for Sintra. Day one for Alfama, the Castelo de São Jorge and Tram 28. Day two for Belém (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, Torre, MAAT). Day three for Chiado, Bairro Alto and a sunset at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Sintra is an unmissable day-trip by train.

The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Belém — late Gothic Manueline architecture at its most absurdly carved, with cloisters that took 100 years to finish. Vasco da Gama is buried inside. Combine with a Pastel de Belém next door at the original 1837 bakery (queue moves fast).

Alfama — the only district that survived the 1755 earthquake intact, a maze of staircase lanes, miradouros and laundry on every façade. Mouraria right next door is quieter and the actual birthplace of fado. Príncipe Real for design shops, garden cafés and a Sunday flea market in the LXII Pavilion.

Bacalhau (salt cod) prepared a different way every day — bacalhau à brás is the most approachable starting point. Sardinhas grelhadas in summer. Ginja (sour-cherry liqueur) from a hole-in-the-wall called A Ginjinha in Rossio. End with pastéis de nata anywhere, warm, with cinnamon.

The metro covers airport to city and the riverfront. Trams 28 (sightseeing through Alfama) and 15 (to Belém) are essential rides. The funiculars (Bica, Glória, Lavra) climb the hills cheaply. Walking is involved; wear shoes with grip — the calçada pavement is slick when wet.

The LX Factory in Alcântara — a converted industrial complex under the 25 de Abril bridge with independent bookshops (Ler Devagar), restaurants and a Sunday market. Walk there along the river from Belém or take tram 15. Sunday brunch on the rooftop of Rio Maravilha is a Lisbon classic.