Things to do in Lyon

Two or three. One day for Vieux Lyon (medieval Saint-Jean and the traboule passages climbing Fourvière hill), one for the modern bits (Confluence, the Musée des Confluences, Croix-Rousse), and a third day for bouchon hopping and a Beaujolais vineyard half-day to the north.

The traboules of Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse — covered passageways cutting between buildings, originally used by silk weavers to transport bolts of fabric dry. Forty are open to the public; just push the doors of the unmarked ones marked with the brass plaque. Free, atmospheric, and the city's signature secret.

Vieux Lyon at the foot of Fourvière for Renaissance courtyards and the traboules; Croix-Rousse uphill for the old silk-weavers' quarter, daily market and indie boutiques; Confluence south of the centre for the modern architecture and waterfront at the meeting of the Rhône and Saône.

Bouchon cuisine — quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings in sauce nantua), salade lyonnaise (with lardons, croutons and a poached egg), tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), all eaten in old-school bouchons like Café des Fédérations. Andouillette only if you're brave. Praline tart (bright pink) at any bakery.

Four metro lines plus funiculars up Fourvière and Croix-Rousse. The tram T1 from Confluence to Part-Dieu is the easy way north–south. A Vélo'v bike share works well between the two rivers. The peninsular centre (the Presqu'île) is easily walkable end to end.

The Murs Peints — the city has over a hundred giant trompe-l'œil murals on real building façades. The Fresque des Lyonnais on Quai Saint-Vincent shows 30 famous Lyonnais on a six-storey wall; the Mur du Cinéma in Saint-Paul is another classic. A walking treasure hunt.