Things to do in Madrid

Three days is the sweet spot. One day for the Prado–Reina Sofía–Thyssen golden triangle of museums, one for the Royal Palace, Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol, and a third to slow down in Retiro Park and the Lavapiés tapas scene. A long weekend covers the essentials without feeling rushed.

Plaza Mayor at dusk. The four-storey arcades glow amber, the bell tower of the Casa de la Panadería lights up, and every café terrace fills with locals ordering vermouth. From there it's a five-minute walk to Mercado de San Miguel for a wander through the food stalls.

Malasaña has the vintage shops, indie record stores and rooftop bars; Chueca is the city's nightlife heart with leafy plazas and Calle de Hortaleza's cafés; and Lavapiés mixes Indian, Senegalese and Bangladeshi restaurants with old Madrid bodegas. All three are walkable from Gran Vía.

Bocadillo de calamares — fried squid rings inside a crusty white roll, eaten standing at a bar near Plaza Mayor. Pair it with a caña of Mahou. For sit-down, try cocido madrileño at La Bola: a slow-cooked chickpea stew served in three courses, broth first.

Yes. The Metro covers everything, runs until 1:30 a.m. and a 10-trip ticket is shared between travellers. Most of the centre — Sol, Ópera, Plaza Mayor, Retiro — is walkable. For longer hops to Matadero or Madrid Río, the cercanías commuter trains are quick and cheap.

El Capricho park in the Alameda de Osuna. Late-18th-century romantic gardens with a hermitage, swan lake and a hidden Civil War bunker open on weekends. It's a 30-minute Metro ride and you'll likely outnumber tourists by 50 to one.