Things to do in Málaga

Yes — two or three days. The Picasso Museum and his birthplace in Plaza de la Merced are essential, the Alcazaba–Gibralfaro castle complex eats a half-day, and Málaga has become a serious food and contemporary-art city. Day-trip to the white village of Ronda or Frigiliana from here.

The Alcazaba — a Moorish fortress climbing from the Roman theatre up to the Gibralfaro castle. The walk between them gives the best panorama of the port, the cathedral and the Mediterranean. Combine with the Pompidou Centre by the marina afterwards.

Soho, between the Alameda Principal and the port, for its street art and gastrobars. The Lagunillas barrio inland has muralist work covering whole façades. For seaside, head to Pedregalejo — a fishermen's strip 20 minutes east with the city's best espetos (sardine skewers grilled on beached boats).

Espetos de sardinas grilled over olive wood on the beach at any chiringuito in Pedregalejo or El Palo. Pair with sweet local Málaga wine made from Pedro Ximénez grapes at Antigua Casa de Guardia — a standing-only bodega from the 1840s where they chalk your tab on the wooden bar.

Walk the centre. The Cercanías C1 train runs to the airport in 12 minutes and along the western Costa del Sol to Fuengirola — useful if you want a beach day in Torremolinos. Buses 11 or 35 reach Pedregalejo from Alameda Principal. Bike paths along the seafront promenade are flat and pleasant.

The English Cemetery on Avenida de Pries — Spain's first Protestant burial ground, peaceful with cypresses, sea views and oddball memorials to shipwrecked sailors. Pair it with a climb to the Gibralfaro castle just above, then stroll back down through the old quarter.