Things to do in Oslo

Two to three days. One for Bygdøy (Viking Ship Museum when it reopens, Fram, Kon-Tiki). One for the new Munch and Deichman Library buildings on the waterfront, and the Opera House roof. One for Vigelandsparken sculpture park and Holmenkollen ski jump.

The new Munch Museum at Bjørvika — the contemporary tower right next to the Opera House holding the largest Munch collection anywhere, with three versions of The Scream rotating on display. The 11th-floor café gives a panorama over the harbour and across to the city centre.

Grünerløkka for cafés, the Mathallen food hall and the Akerselva river walks. Aker Brygge waterfront for the harbour scene and Tjuvholmen for the Astrup Fearnley museum. Grønland just east of the centre for multicultural food. Frogner around the Vigeland park for the upmarket residential feel.

Salmon — gravlaks (cured with dill and sugar) or smoked over alder. Lapskaus (meat-and-vegetable stew) for cosy winter eating. Brunost (sweet brown cheese) on rye crispbread. Filter coffee from Tim Wendelboe or Fuglen. Akvavit shots with the dark beer. Eat at restaurants outside the centre to save money.

Five T-bane metro lines plus trams and ferries integrated into one Ruter ticket. The Bygdøy ferry from the City Hall pier is the best way to reach the museum peninsula in summer. Walk the centre — the Akerselva river path from Mathallen to Kuba park is the city's nicest walking route.

The Ekeberg sculpture park — a forested hillside east of the centre with works by Rodin, Vigeland and Damien Hirst dotted along walking trails. The viewpoint at the top is supposedly where Munch first imagined The Scream. Tram 18 or 19 from the centre, then walk uphill. Free, almost empty.