Things to do in Porto

Two to three. Day one for Ribeira waterfront, Sé cathedral and a Livraria Lello visit. Day two for crossing the Dom Luís I bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia for the port cellars. A third day for Foz do Douro at the river mouth and Matosinhos for seafood lunch and the FC Porto stadium.

A port cellar visit in Vila Nova de Gaia — Taylor's, Graham's and Cálem all run flights with the river-and-Ribeira view across the gorge. For something smaller, the Espaço Porto Cruz combines a free tasting with a rooftop bar. Walk the upper deck of the Dom Luís I bridge to get there.

Ribeira along the river for arcaded mediaeval houses (UNESCO-listed). Miragaia next door is calmer with similar views. Cedofeita uphill for indie shops along Rua Miguel Bombarda. Foz do Douro at the river mouth for sunset and the Praia dos Ingleses beach.

Francesinha — a brick of layered meats inside a sandwich, smothered in spiced beer-and-tomato sauce, eaten with a fried egg on top. Café Santiago is the most famous; Cervejaria Brasão a calmer alternative. Tripas à moda do Porto (tripe stew) if you're brave. White port and tonic as an aperitif.

The metro line D crosses the Dom Luís I bridge — useful for getting to Gaia and out to Matosinhos beach. Trams 1, 18 and 22 are vintage cars that still run as actual lines. Andante card works on all of it. Walk the steep old-town centre; it's hilly but every climb earns a view.

São Bento railway station's entrance hall — over 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting Portuguese history. Most visitors snap a photo and leave; sit on one of the benches and decode the panels. Combine with a coffee at the Majestic Café on Rua Santa Catarina, the prettiest Belle Époque interior in the city.