Things to do in Prague

Three days. One for the Old Town (Astronomical Clock, Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge). One for Prague Castle and the Lesser Town below it (Malá Strana). One for the Vyšehrad fortress and Vinohrady for craft beer. Add a Karlovy Vary or Kutná Hora day if you have a fourth.

Charles Bridge at dawn — before the tour groups arrive, when the 30 baroque statues and the Castle silhouette are reflected in the still Vltava. Cross to the Lesser Town side and climb up to the Strahov Monastery library for the painted-ceiling reading room.

Vinohrady south-east of the centre for tree-lined avenues, Riegrovy sady park and the city's best craft-beer bars (Sad Beer, Vinohradský Parlament). Žižkov next door for the bohemian-grungy scene around Bořivojova street. Karlín east of the centre for restored 19th-century blocks and brunch culture.

Czech pilsner — Pilsner Urquell on tap at U Pinkasů, the bar that's been pouring it since 1843. Svíčková (sirloin in cream sauce with bread dumplings), guláš and vepřo-knedlo-zelo (pork-dumplings-cabbage) at any non-touristy hospoda. Trdelník (the spiral pastry) is for tourists; Czechs don't eat it.

Three metro lines (A, B, C) and a tram network that includes the still-running 1980s Tatra T3 cars on some routes. Tram 22 connects most major sights (Old Town, Wenceslas Square, Castle hill) — locals call it the sightseeing tram. Walk the centre; it's compact and almost entirely pedestrianised.

Letná Park — the bluff across the river from the Old Town. The Stalin Monument used to stand here; now it's the Metronome and a beer garden with one of the best free views of the bridges. Walk down through Letná to the river and cross back via the wooden footbridge near Štvanice.