Things to do in Seville

Two full days cover the headline sights — the Alcázar, the Cathedral with its Giralda tower and Plaza de España. Add a third for a slower pace through Triana across the river, a flamenco performance in the evening, and a day trip to Córdoba by AVE train (45 minutes).

The Royal Alcázar. Booking ahead is essential — the Mudéjar courtyards, the Patio de las Doncellas reflecting pool and the gardens with their orange trees and peacocks easily fill two hours. Game of Thrones used the Salón de Embajadores as the Water Gardens of Dorne.

Santa Cruz is the postcard old Jewish quarter — narrow whitewashed lanes around Calle Mateos Gago. Triana, across the Isabel II bridge, is the flamenco and ceramic heartland with the Mercado de Triana on the riverbank. Alameda de Hércules is where younger locals drink.

Tapas in the abuelo sense — small plates over a glass of fino sherry. Try espinacas con garbanzos (spinach and chickpeas) at Bar Las Teresas in Santa Cruz, or pescaíto frito (fried fish) at any Triana bar. Order rebujito (fino with lemonade) during Feria season in spring.

Walk. The centre is compact and most streets are pedestrianised or too narrow for cars. There's one tram line (T1) along Avenida de la Constitución that's useful for crossing the centre quickly. The metro only really helps if you're staying out near the Olympic Stadium or in Mairena.

Las Setas — the huge wooden parasol over Plaza de la Encarnación. Few day-trippers go up; the rooftop walkway gives a soft sunset view over the rooftops and the cathedral, and at the base there's a Roman archaeological crypt with mosaics from the Andalusian Hispalis.