Things to do in Stockholm

Three days. One for Gamla Stan (Royal Palace, Storkyrkan), Vasa Museum and Skansen. One for Södermalm hilltop walks and SoFo design shopping. One for an archipelago ferry to Vaxholm or Fjäderholmarna. The city sits on 14 islands; allow ferry time between them.

The Vasa Museum on Djurgården — the 1628 warship that sank on its maiden voyage, raised intact from the harbour mud in 1961 and now standing in a six-storey climate-controlled hall. The detail of the painted carvings on the stern at close range is the experience nothing else gives you in northern Europe.

Södermalm — the southern island, hipster heart with Mariatorget, the SoFo design district and Monteliusvägen viewpoint over the old town. Östermalm for upmarket cafés and the Saluhall food market. Vasastan around Odenplan for residential cafés. Take the metro to Solna for Hagaparken if you want forest.

Köttbullar (Swedish meatballs) with lingonberry and cream sauce at any traditional husmanskost (home cooking) spot like Pelikan in Södermalm. Toast Skagen (prawn toast with whitefish roe), gravadlax and a glass of strong dark beer. Cinnamon buns (kanelbullar) with filter coffee — the daily fika.

The metro (Tunnelbana) is one of the world's most beautiful — many stations are painted, mosaicked or carved into the bedrock. T-Centralen and Stadion are the famous ones. Combined with ferries (the public-transport ferry to Djurgården, ticket included), it covers everywhere. Buy an SL access card.

Skogskyrkogården — the Woodland Cemetery, a UNESCO-listed Gunnar Asplund modernist masterpiece in the southern suburbs. A meditative walk through pine forest and minimalist chapels. Take the Tunnelbana red line to Skogskyrkogården station. Off most tourist itineraries; deserves an afternoon.